Monday, March 14, 2011




Expand your living space into the outdoors



Choosing Between A Deck Or Patio

What's the greenest way to build a deck? Would it be okay to utilize pressure-treated lumber? What's the simplest way to add on to your house? What type of decking is regarded as being sustainable, and what is the best way for attaching boards to the framing? Should the surfaces be finished? What product should I select? These are a few of the questions I hear about when designing outdoor living spaces.

Generally, the greenest deck is often a patio. Sure, wooden decks or balconies will be the only options should they have to be significantly above ground level, although there are masonry- and petroleum-based options that can be used in place of true lumber.

Outdoor living is a great way to expand our living space without increasing the level of conditioned space: it gets us out into the open air, to the nature we’re looking to preserve using the green building movement. But asking any “green” material to face up to the environmental exposure a deck is meant to is asking a lot. When the outdoor living area is going to be at or near grade, a patio-the masonry equal to a deck-can be a greener choice.

 When the word “patio” conjures images of dirty concrete with weeds sprouting up  through cracks, there are better options. Harvesting “urbanite” for reuse by breaking apart that old concrete into manageable pieces is one example; overlaying a drainage layer and topping it with permeable surface material. An intricate recessed patio can be assembled using salvaged granite stones from an old  foundation.

 Commercially ready, cement-based, interlocking modular paving blocks is definitely an affordable choice, although I'm partial to square concrete pavers occur a bed of crushed stone for any more formal look, or flagstones (flat, natural “cleft” surface fieldstone) for a rustic feeling. A designer I know built an extremely interesting patio using a mix of broken stone countertops, tiles, and glass. Slate roofing could be recycled into patio paving, but, like tile, the little, thin pieces would not be stable underfoot unless set into a bed of mortar. Stacked closely together on edge, though, the thin edges would create a unique, usable surface.
Brick, an old time patio surface, is hard to beat because of its combination of warm color and texture. Bricks could be locally made in most parts of the country or recycled from fine old buildings. Durability is definitely an issue in areas that freeze, though; search for “hard” bricks, tempered to be used as paving, or perhaps be prepared for them to disintegrate with time to their original type of clay particles.

Drainage options will be different based on several factors. If the patio sits over a well-draining site, it will likely be best and easiest to use a permeable base layer for instance crushed stone and leave gaps within the paving material to allow stormwater to drain through. The gaps could be filled with exactly the same material, or planted with moss (if it’s shady) or thyme (if it’s sunny). Weeds can be simply killed having a 50% solution of vinegar, or scraped out having a brush created for the purpose. Personally, I would not make use of a chemical for example Round-Up or burn the weeds having a flame, but those are other options, probably forget about harmful than standard deck maintenance techniques. If the site doesn't drain well, start with a well-compacted base of gravel with graduated particle size so the particles lock together. On top of that, construct a drainage layer using crushed stone, with a drain tile (4-in. perforated pipe is effective) to direct water to another the main site if necessary.

 Keep the size to roomlike dimensions, and when in doubt, make the length 1.6 times the width for any pleasing proportion. Patios require a sense of enclosure to feel inviting; masonry walls or shrubs and plantings produce a sense of containment. Whenever a tall wall looms over an abutting patio, bring the scale down with a trellis or pergola, or pull the patio from the house a little and plant a tall shrub or small tree between it and also the house. Full sun can make a patio (or deck) uncomfortably hot; a patio umbrella or perhaps a trellis engrossed in vines provides respite.

Consider low-level lighting and a source for cooking fuel-wood or gas-in the look stages. Outdoor cooking appliances keep heat out of the house (look for Energy Star models) and may be connected to gas or large propane tanks, if on site. Or, develop a fire pit or an outdoor barbecue. Your kitchen has had over the indoors as the heart of the house, the main gathering spot; duplicating kitchen functions outdoors will guarantee the patio is well-used.

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

What Is A Walk Score

Walkable neighborhoods offer surprising benefits to the environment, our health, our finances, and our communities.

  • Environment: Cars are a leading cause of climate change. Your feet are zero-pollution transportation machines.
  • Health: The average resident of a walkable neighborhood weighs 7 pounds less than someone who lives in a sprawling neighborhood.
  • Finances: One point of Walk Score is worth up to $3,000 of value for your property.
  • Communities: Studies show that for every 10 minutes a person spends in a daily car commute, time spent in community activities falls by 10%.

Find A Walkable Place To Live

Thursday, January 20, 2011

Increase Your Energy Efficiency



Unless your home was specially constructed for energy efficiency, you can usually reduce your energy bills by adding more insulation. Many older homes have less insulation than homes built today, but adding insulation to a newer home may also pay for itself within a few years.

Heat flows naturally from a warmer to a cooler space. In the winter, this heat flow moves directly from all heated living spaces to adjacent unheated attics, garages, basements, and even to the outdoors. Heat flow can also move indirectly through interior ceilings, walls, and floors—wherever there is a difference in temperature. During the cooling season, heat flows from the outdoors to the interior of a house.

To maintain comfort, the heat lost in the winter must be replaced by your heating system and the heat gained in the summer must be removed by your cooling system. Properly insulating your home will decrease this heat flow by providing an effective resistance to the flow of heat.

To determine whether you should add insulation, you first need to find out how much insulation you already have in your home and where.

A qualified home energy auditor will include an insulation check as a routine part of a whole-house energy assessment. An energy assessment, also known as a home energy audit, will also help identify areas of your home that are in need of air sealing. (Before you insulate, you should make sure that your home is properly air sealed.)

When insulating your home, you can choose from many types of insulation. To choose the best type of insulation, you should first determine the following:

• Where you want or need to add insulation
• The recommended R-values for areas you want to insulate.

Understanding R-Value


The R-value is a measure of thermal resistance used in the building and construction industry. The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating effectiveness. Under uniform conditions it is the ratio of the temperature difference across an insulator and the heat flux (heat transfer per unit area). Heat transfer through an insulating layer is analogous to electrical resistance. R-value is the reciprocal of U-value. The U-value (or U-factor), more correctly called the overall heat transfer coefficient, describes how well a building element conducts heat.

The US Department of Energy has recommended R-values for given areas of the USA based on the general local energy costs for heating and cooling, as well as the climate of an area. There are four types of insulation: Rolls and batts, Loose-fill, Rigid foam, and Foam-in-place. Rolls and batts are typically flexible insulators that come in fibers, like fiberglass. Loose-fill insulation comes in loose fibers or pellets and should be blown into a space. Rigid foam is more expensive than fiber, but has a higher R-value. Foam-in-place can be blown into small areas to control air leaks, like those around windows. Increasing the thickness of an insulating layer increases the thermal resistance. For example, doubling the thickness of fibreglass batting will double its R-value,

The R-value is a measure of insulation's heat loss retardation under specified test conditions. The primary mode of heat transfer impeded by insulation is convection but unavoidably it also impedes heat loss by all three heat transfer modes: conduction, convection, and radiation. The primary means of heat loss across an uninsulated air-filled space is natural convection, which occurs because of changes in air density with temperature.

The amount of insulation or R-value you'll need depends on your climate, type of heating and cooling system, and the section of the house you plan to insulate.
Properly insulating your home will not only help reduce your heating and cooling costs but also make your home more comfortable.

Thursday, December 16, 2010

Have A Safe Holiday

Residential fires during the holiday season are more frequent, more costly, and more deadly than at any other time of the year.

Read more: http://www.houselogic.com/articles/holiday-fire-safety-tips/#ixzz18J4tTol4

Monday, October 18, 2010

Thinking about remodeling in your home. Kitchen and baths give your home the biggest bang for your buck. Here are 11 kitchen and bath trends for 2010

Read on...

Friday, September 24, 2010

Solar power meets consumer power: Group discounts help you buy home solar power. See how to save and be green.

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Its hot outside now but should be cooling off in the next month or so. Now is a good time to think about getting or building a fire pit. Its a very popular item to have now and you can add value to your home and landscape by building one. A built-in fire pit is a glorified campfire, with sturdy walls of stone that help contain the flames and heat. That's especially important in the parts of the country where there's a risk of brush fires. So the first task in building any fire pit is checking local codes on open flames. The pit must be located far from overhanging trees, the house, and any other flammable structure. Read More Here...

Friday, September 17, 2010

Short Sales...Not For The Feint Of Heart

I have always had a fascination with the English Language and having studied linguistic anthropology I became even more interested and even a bit amused. Did you ever think about the way we say things like "how much does that run," when what we really are trying to ask is how much does the item cost? Why do we do that?
American idioms are a great source of entertainment- we use phrases and words in ways that native speakers typically understand without thought but are completely confusing to the non-native speaker. We say things like, "lipstick on a pig." I get the idea behind it - a quick fix to make something seem more attractive than it is... but really? Who had the chutzpah to put lipstick on the pig and did they really think it made the pig better looking? I wish I could have seen this little event- I can't even successfully give my cat a pill- I can't imagine getting the pig to hold still long enough to get a lovely shade of mauve applied to it's whiskery mouth. Perhaps my vision of applying the lipstick to the pig is too grounded in the literal or concrete ...but still what a fun visual.

In all fairness, I have to say that even though we have tortured the language with our slovenly grammatical habits and imprecise use of words, the language has never been all that clear. We have always had multiple meanings for words, and much of spoken language is contextual and non-verbal. We say the word "bear," which sounds just like "bare," and from the context of the sentence we determine which version of the word is being referenced and apply meaning to the sentence- all in the blink of an eye without even conscious thought. But what about when we get confused about the the meaning? Like the term "short sale," which is a source of great confusion for native speakers and non-native speakers alike.

The popular misconception is that a short sale will move through the transaction process and close more quickly( shortly in terms of time if you will), which it will not. A short sale is perhaps the longest transaction a buyer and seller can experience. The term "short" comes form the idea that the seller in this transaction is asking their lender to release their interest in the property. their lien, for less than the full amount that is owed- in effect allowing the seller to sell the property "short." There are a lot of component parts in these transactions: the seller must answer the question of why they stopped making payments or why they feel that they will no longer be able to make payments and they must demonstrate a true hardship. If they are able to do this then the next step is to establish the value of the property- or asset as it is known. The seller's lender will generally order a BPO (Broker Price Opinion) to get a guideline. After which, they may order an appraisal or another BPO. Once the lender is satisfied with the value they will respond to any offer that is on the table. There a lot of misconceptions about this portion of the transaction as most banks will not respond to a seller's request to short sale until they have an offer in hand- then they will evaluate the seller's docs and the buyer's offer. If the seller has a failed offer then they can honestly say their short sale has been approved, but it is important to remember that each offer is evaluated on its own merits. Just because a short sale was accepted at a certain price previously, there is no guarantee it will be again.
All of this verification of seller status and asset value can take a while so the informed, "would be short sale purchaser" should plan on 30-60 days to get a response to their short sale offer. Once agreement is reached on the offer price the bank will typically give a 30 day window in which to close with a per diem amount payable by the purchaser for any delays in closing. When contemplating purchasing a short sale properties there are additional considerations:
  • Short sales are never guaranteed, neither to the seller, the buyer nor even the agents
  • Contrary to popular belief banks do not have to accept a short sale- they can opt to foreclose, take ownership of the asset and do with it as they please.
  • If a bank participates in short sales it is as a courtesy to the borrower
  • If you decide to write an offer on a short sale property- do not get married to the idea- your odds of getting it are much narrower than on other types of transactions including REO properties, which are already owned by a bank.
When opting for a short sale, whether you are a would be buyer or a would be seller find yourself an agent who has experience with short sales and plan on a long and sometimes frustrating transaction. Short sales, although ubiquitous in the current market place, are not for beginners nor are they for the feint of heart. Contracting with a broker who has the certifications but lacks experience will do you little or no good as every short sale deal is different and good brokers learn from each transaction they successfully complete. A broker can never guarantee the outcome when they attempt a short sale but if they have a strong track record- your odds are better, so ask how many short sales they have attempted and how many they have successfully completed. If you are a seller this is especially important as you are relying on them for a great deal. As a seller you need a broker that is prepared to go the extra mile for you- to fight for you and creatively problem solve the obstacles that are guaranteed to pop up. Best of Luck to all in your real estate endeavours.







Thursday, July 8, 2010

Home Safety

An accident or injury can occur in any part of your home. Some safety hazards are obvious — such as a toy truck left lying at the top of the stairs. Others are not so easily identified — such as a stairway railing that has become loose. Check out this website for more information...

Thursday, April 29, 2010

Reduce your carbon foot print and get a new mower at the same time.

It's spring time in Colorado. That lovely time of year when all the rain and as the case is today, snow, we get starts to turn our lawns a lovely shade of green and marks the start of lawn mowing season. As we pull our lawnmowers out of their winter hibernation do you discover that you are in need of a new lawn mower? Maybe your lawn mower works just fine but you want to help reduce your carbon footprint? Well then you need to attend the Mow Down Pollution: Lawn Mower Exchange Event this weekend in Denver.

The Regional Air Quality Council (RAQC) is pleased to announce its annual Mow Down Pollution Event for 2010. At the event, Colorado residents are invited to bring in an old, gasoline-powered lawn mower to exchange for a discount on a new, earth-friendly alternative. Participants can expect to remain in their vehicle while event staff unloads old equipment and loads new mowers.


WHEN: Saturday, May 1, 2010 9 am to 4 pm.

WHERE: RidgeGate Development off Lincoln and I-25. Enter near the corner of Ridgegate Parkway and Belvedere Lane in Lone Tree, Colorado southeast of Target, northwest of the Lone Tree Recreation Center.

Click here for a map of the location. Look for event signage and markers.

HOW TO PARTICIPATE: Click HERE (http://www.neutonpower.com/content/admin/aqi/raqc_info/index.html ) to REGISTER NOW to reserve your mower starting April 19, 2010. You must register for the event to secure your lawn mower.

PRICING:

The CE 5 model (retail price $299) will be sold for $175 to those without a gasoline lawn mower to recycle, and $150 for those who do have a mower to exchange.
The CE 6 model (retail price $399) will be sold for $275 to those without a gasoline lawn mower to recycle, and $250 for those who do have a mower to exchange.
The Neuton Reel Mower (retail price $99) will be sold for $65 to those without a gasoline lawn mower to recycle, and $55 for those who do have a mower to exchange.
To learn more about these models, please visit www.neutonpower.com.

 
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